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Old Ale
Old Ale recalls the type of beer brewed before the Industrial
Revolution, stored for months or even years in unlined wooden
vessels known as tuns. The beer would pick up some lactic
sourness as a result of wild yeasts, lactobacilli and tannins
in the wood. The result was a beer dubbed ‘stale’
by drinkers: it was one of the components of the early, blended
Porters. The style has re-emerged in recent years, due primarily
to the fame of Theakston’s Old Peculier, Gale’s
Prize Old Ale and Thomas Hardy’s Ale, the last saved
from oblivion by O’Hanlon’s Brewery in Devon.
Old Ales, contrary to expectation, do not have to be especially
strong: they can be no more than 4% alcohol, though the Gale’s
and O’Hanlon’s versions are considerably stronger.
Neither do they have to be dark: Old Ale can be pale and burst
with lush sappy malt, tart fruit and spicy hop notes. Darker
versions will have a more profound malt character with powerful
hints of roasted grain, dark fruit, polished leather and fresh
tobacco. The hallmark of the style remains a lengthy period
of maturation, often in bottle rather than bulk vessels. Old
Ales typically range from 4% to 6.5%. |
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Stouts
and Porters
Porter was a London style that turned the brewing industry
upside down early in the 18th century. It was a dark brown
beer – 19th-century versions became jet black –
that was originally a blend of brown ale, pale ale and ‘stale’
or wellmatured ale. It acquired the name Porter as a result
of its popularity among London’s workers who carried
goods around the City. There was no mechanised transport
and horses were expensive so goods and supplies were simply
carried around by these porters. The strongest versions
of Porter were known as Stout Porter, reduced over the years
to simply Stout. Such vast quantities of Porter and Stout
flooded into Ireland from London and Bristol that a Dublin
brewer named Arthur Guinness decided to fashion his own
interpretation of the style. The beers were strong –
6% for Porter, 7% or 8% for Stout. Guinness in Dublin blended
some unmalted roasted barley and in so doing produced a
style known as Dry Irish Stout. Restrictions on making roasted
malts in Britain during World War One led to the demise
of Porter and Stout and left the market to the Irish. In
recent years, smaller craft brewers in Britain have rekindled
an interest in the style, though in keeping with modern
drinking habits, strengths have been reduced. Look for profound
dark and roasted malt character with raisin and sultana
fruit, espresso orcappuccino coffee, liquorice and molasses,
all underscored by hefty hop bitterness. Porters are complex
in flavour, range from 4% to 6.5% and are typically black
or dark brown; the darkness comes from the use of dark malts
unlike stouts which use roasted malted barley. Stouts can
be dry or sweet and range from 4% to 8% ABV. |
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Bitters
Bitters developed towards the end of the 19th century as brewers
began to produce beers that could be served in pubs after
only a few days storage in cellars. Bitters grew out of pale
ale but were usually deep bronze to copper in colour due to
the use of slightly darker crystal malts.
Towards the end of the 19th century, brewers built large
estates of tied pubs. They moved away from vatted beers
stored for many months and developed ‘running beers’
that could be served after a few days’ storage in
pub cellars. Draught Mild was a ‘running beer’
along with a new type that was dubbed Bitter by drinkers.
Bitter grew out of Pale Ale but was generally deep bronze
to copper in colour due to the use of slightly darker malts
such as crystal that give the beer fullness of palate. Best
is a stronger version of Bitter but there is considerable
crossover. Bitter falls into the 3.4% to 3.9% band, with
Best Bitter 4% upwards but a number of brewers label their
ordinary Bitters ‘Best’. A further development
of Bitter comes in the shape of Extra or Special Strong
Bitters of 5% or more: familiar examples of this style include
Fuller’s ESB and Greene King Abbot. With ordinary
Bitter, look for a spicy, peppery and grassy hop character,
a powerful bitterness, tangy fruit and juicy and nutty malt.
With Best and Strong Bitters, malt and fruit character will
tend to dominate but hop aroma and bitterness are still
crucial to the style, often achieved by ‘late hopping’
in the brewery or adding hops to casks as they leave for
pubs.
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Light Bitters
We define light bitters as any bitter with an ABV of 3.4%
or lower or an original gravity (OG) of 1034 or lower. By
light bitters, we generally mean low gravity or low strength,
but they do also tend to be lighter in colour than stronger
bitters.
Originally these beers were most prevalent in the West
Country where they were colloquially known as Boy’s
Bitters. Other names that have been used over the years
are Family Ales or Luncheon Ales.
Recent years have seen a reduction in the number of traditional
West Country light bitters, most notably the tragic demise
of Palmer’s Bridport Bitter, although St Austell IPA
and Arkells 2B still fly the flag. Other parts of the country
have seen the reintroduction of lower strength family ales
such as Weltons Pride and Joy, mainly from small independent
brewers.
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Mild
Mild is one of the most traditional beer styles which is enjoying
a revival in today's real ale market. Usually dark brown in
colour, due to the use of well-roasted malts or barley it
is less hopped than bitters and often has a chocolatety character
with nutty and burnt flavours.
Cask conditioned Mild is a rarity in a lot of parts of
the country, which is a crying shame, because Mild is a
distinctive and tasty beer. Mild is one of, if not the,
oldest beer styles in the country. Until the 15th century,
ale and mead were the major British brews, both made without
hops. Hops were introduced from Holland, France and Germany
after this time. This also started the trend on reducing
the gravity of ale, as the Hop is also a preservative, and
beers had to be brewed very strongly to try to help preserve
them. The hop also started the rapid decline of mead, which
is only made in a very few places today.
So what is Mild? It is a beer which has tastes and textures
all it's own. Basically it is a beer that is less hopped
than bitter, etc. The darkness of Dark Milds, such as Greene
King XX Mild, comes from the use of darker malts and/or
roasted barley which are used to compensate for the loss
of Hop character. "Chocolate ", "fruity",
"nutty" and "burnt" are all tastes to
be found in the complexity of Milds. However, not all milds
are dark. Yorkshire brewed Timothy Taylors Golden Best is
one of the best examples of a light coloured mild, as is
Bank's Original, the name changed from Mild to try to give
it a more modern image. In Scotland, 60/- ale is similar
to mild (Belhaven's being a good example).
Milds today tend to have an ABV in the 3% to 3.5% range,
with of course some notable exceptions. In fact, a lot of
the Microbreweries who try their hand at mild are bringing
the alcohol content back up somewhat! Mild wasn't always
weaker though. In the latter half of the 19th Century, milds
were brewed to about the same strength as bitters as a response
to the demand for a sweeter beer from the working classes
and in those days most bitters were around 6 to 7% ABV.
During the First World War, malt rationing and pressure
from the temperance movement led to brewers rapidly reduced
the strength. Following the Second World War, as prosperity
returned, mild`s popularity as a cheap ale began to fade,
not being helped by being kept badly in run down pubs as
the Big Brewers began to heavily promote their keg lager
brands. Coupled to this was a gradual, but steady decline
in heavy industry in the North and Midlands of Britain,
mild`s great marketplace.
By the 1970s, the keg lager boom had seen mild's share
of the market fall to around 13% and it was a shame to see
a bland gassy and overpriced product, which was generally
weaker than the mild it was trying to oust, succeed in many
cases.
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India Pale Ale or IPA
India Pale Ale changed the face of brewing early in the 19th
century. The new technologies of the Industrial Revolution
enabled brewers to use pale malts to fashion beers that were
genuinely golden or pale bronze in colour. First brewed in
London and Burton-on-Trent for the colonial market, IPAs were
strong in alcohol and high in hops: the preservative character
of the hops helped keep the beers in good condition during
long sea journeys. Beers with less alcohol and hops were developed
for the domestic market and were known as Pale Ale. Today
Pale Ale is usually a bottled version of Bitter, though historically
the styles are different. Marston’s Pedigree is an example
of Burton Pale Ale, not Bitter, while the same brewery’s
Old Empire is a fascinating interpretation of a Victorian
IPA. So-called IPAs with strengths of around 3.5% are not
true to style. Look for juicy malt, citrus fruit and a big
spicy, peppery bitter hop character, with strengths of 4%
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Golden Ales
This new style of pale, well-hopped and quenching beer developed
in the 1980s as independent brewers attempted to win younger
drinkers from heavily-promoted lager brands. The first in
the field were Exmoor Gold and Hop Back Summer Lightning,
though many micros and regionals now make their versions of
the style. Strengths will range from 3.5% to 5.3%. The hallmark
will be the biscuity and juicy malt character derived from
pale malts, underscored by tart citrus fruit and peppery hops,
often with the addition of hints of vanilla and cornflour.
Golden ales are pale amber, gold, yellow or straw coloured
and above all, such beers are quenching and served cool.
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Scottish Beers
Historically, Scottish beers tend to be darker, sweeter
and less heavily hopped than English and Welsh ales: a cold
climate demands warming beers. But many of the new craft
breweries produce beers lighter in colour and with generous
hop rates. The traditional, classic styles are Light, low
in strength and so-called even when dark in colour, also
known as 60/-, Heavy or 70/-, Export or 80/- and a strong
Wee Heavy, similar to a barley wine, and also labelled 90/-.
In the 19th century, beers were invoiced according to strength,
using the now defunct currency of the shilling.
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Barley Wine
Barley Wine is a style that dates from the 18th and 19th centuries
when England was often at war with France and it was the duty
of patriots, usually from the upper classes, to drink ale
rather than Claret.
Barley Wine had to be strong – often between 10%
and 12% -- and was stored for prodigious periods of as long
at 18 months or two years. When country houses had their
own small breweries, it was often the task of the butler
to brew ale that was drunk from cut-glass goblets at the
dining table. The biggest-selling Barley Wine for years
was Whitbread’s 10.9% Gold Label, now available only
in cans. Bass’s No 1 Barley Wine (10.5%) is occasionally
brewed in Burton-on-Trent, stored in cask for 12 months
and made available to CAMRA beer festivals. Fuller’s
Vintage Ale (8.5%) is a bottle-conditioned version of its
Golden Pride and is brewed with different varieties of malts
and hops every year.
Many micro-brewers now produce their interpretations of
the style. Expect massive sweet malt and ripe fruit of the
pear drop, orange and lemon type, with darker fruits, chocolate
and coffee if darker malts are used. Hop rates are generous
and produce bitterness and peppery, grassy and floral notes.
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